1. Shoulders are the most important fit of any suit. You can alter other parts if you’re buying off the rack, but you cannot alter shoulder length.

2. Lose the pleats—although suits are progressing toward a return to the classic look, pleats still look too old fashioned and will make you look like you are wearing your grandfather’s trousers.

3. Embellish your suit depending on occasion; you can never go wrong with a white, cotton, flat pocket square. For more casual occasions, opt for a patterned puff fold or a two or three pointed pocket square for additional flair.

4. Tie thickness should be relative to the width of the lapel of your jacket and the collar of your shirt. Modern suits are slimming down in lapel lengths and neckties should also follow suit, just remember to keep in mind the occasion—don’t wear skinny ties to an interview or a formal event.

5. A tie clip adds a touch of personality and a boatload of class to any suit; they also keep your tie from flopping around on a windy day.

6. There are three kinds of lapels: notch, peak, and shawl. While notch lapels are the standard, safe, and the go-to of any man’s suit, peak lapels are making a comeback and should be considered for dressier, more modern suits. Shawl lapels are ideal for the most formal of occasions like black tie events, weddings, galas, and red carpets.

7. Old cut suits were always boxy and looser. Today, suits should highlight good features and compliment your figure. Always have a tailor bring in the back of your suit jacket and taper the width of your pants.

From looking like you belong in Casablanca to The Wolf of Wall Street, these tips should give you a heads-up on where to go now with modern-cut suits. Just remember: you get what you pay for. If you can afford to spend a little extra on tailoring, canvassing, fabrics, and quality, then do so because your suit is an investment—and the more you invest in it, the more it will pay off.