Taking root in a rich culinary heritage, Ilocos Sur’s cuisine boasts hearty dishes that will excite your taste buds. Each bite offers a taste of the past, blending bold and appetizing flavors with the freshness of locally sourced ingredients. From iconic dishes synonymous with Ilocano identity to modern interpretations of beloved tastes, the province’s culinary landscape is as diverse as it is delicious.

 

Amidst the sunlit cobblestone streets and windswept coasts of Ilocos Sur, lie unassuming culinary treasures. While the picturesque scenery is a feast for the eyes while exploring the province, make sure to leave room for the soulful food Ilocos Sur offers. Take a chance with the smoky Ilocos Empanada or have a go at the tangy richness of Pinakbet. Surely, there’s an Ilocano dish that will satisfy your cravings and leave you yearning for more of the province’s authentic taste profile. 

 

Savor the flavors of Vigan with Nanang Sion Vigan Empanada

A few minutes away from Vigan’s iconic tourist spot, Calle Crisologo, one can stop by Nanang Sion—a restaurant known as the “home of classic Vigan empanada.” Like the majority of buildings and structures around the area, Nanang Sion’s architecture doesn’t shy away from history, featuring Spanish-style architecture and a curious collection of antique bicycles and motorcycles hung on the walls and ceilings. Found along Quirino Boulevard, Nanang Sion is a must-visit establishment for its variety of dishes and specialty empanadas. 

 

Longganisa Rice Bowl

For those trying Vigan’s version of longganisa, Nanang Sion’s Longganisa Rice Bowl, priced at ₱135, is a starter meal packed with authentic Ilocano flavors that will leave you craving for more. Often served as whole sausages, the longganisa in this dish is cut into bits, with its garlicky seasoning evenly spread across the fried rice. Each bite is bursting with that garlicky spice, mellowed out by cucumber slices and a hard-boiled egg. The rice bowl also comes with crispy yet meaty small empanadas, adding a delightful crunch to the meal.

 

Bagnet

Another staple in Ilocano cuisine, bagnet is a Filipino dish consisting of pork belly boiled and deep-fried until crispy. It’s often seasoned with garlic, black peppercorns, bay leaves, and salt. The result is a delectable combination of crackling pork skin wrapped around the tender meat.

 

Nanang Sion’s version of bagnet is a must-try. Priced at ₱250, the Bagnet meal comes with fried rice, cucumber slices, and a cup of nilaga, a comforting warm broth with vegetables. The combination of textures and flavors–from the crunch of the bagnet to the soft fried rice–-creates a comforting plate for diners. 

 

Okoy Longganisa

Known to be made with either vegetables or seafood, okoy, or deep-fried fritters, takes a unique spin at Nanang Sion’s. Priced at ₱90, the Okoy Longganisa brings a hint of the sea with its deep-fried shrimp base and blend of longganisa bits. Often enjoyed with a spicy vinegar sauce, the Okoy Longganisa creates a satisfying blend of umami goodness and light flavors.

 

Vigan Empanadas

Of course, one can’t leave Nanang Sion without trying their specialty empanadas. Empanadas are a type of baked or fried turnover consisting of a pastry shell filled with various ingredients. The common Filipino empanada features a filling of ground meat, chopped onions, and raisins (picadillo-style). In contrast, Ilocos-based empanadas have richer fillings, usually including green papaya, mung beans, longganisa, and egg yolk.

 

With a variety of options to choose from, each one offers a unique twist on the traditional recipe. From the standout Cheesy Longganisa Empanada to the sweet Honey Garlic Empanada, each flavor promises a delightful surprise of savory goodness that will leave you hungry for more.

 

Garlic Longganisa

First up is the Garlic Longganisa Empanada. This classic treat combines Vigan longganisa with a crispy pastry shell. Every bite is light yet filling, making it a great introduction to the specialty empanadas at Nanang Sion’s. One order of this empanada is priced at ₱95, making it a delicious and affordable option. 

 

Sisig Longganisa

Next up is the Sisig Longganisa Empanada. Though it might seem unconventional at first, this empanada is a delicious fusion of two beloved Filipino staples. Priced at just ₱130, it features a classic Ilocos empanada topped with a savory blend of sisig, creating a unique and flavorful combination. The longganisa meat inside pairs perfectly with the sisig, and the green chilies in the sisig add a subtle yet exciting kick of spiciness. This blend of flavors adds a delightful depth to the dish, making each bite an enticing experience. 

 

Cheesy Longganisa

Another type of empanada offered at Nanang Sion’s is the Cheesy Longganisa priced at ₱85. This empanada features the basic Vigan ingredients of minced onions, papaya, and spices, but stands out with its grated cheese toppings and a drizzle of cheese sauce across the empanada’s shell. While this may seem like an unusual combination, this pair is sure to surprise one’s taste buds with its slightly briny flavor. 

 

Honey Garlic

Heading to the sweeter side, the Honey Garlic Empanada pairs the aromatic richness of garlic with a touch of honey. One can compare this already to the Garlic Longganisa minus the subtle sweetness. Priced at ₱85, this empanada offers a lighter flavor profile and may be overshadowed by the other empanada specialities offered at the establishment. 

 

Beef Steak

A heavier option of empanada offered at Nanang Sion’s is the Beef Steak variant, sold at ₱140, making it one of the more expensive empanada specialties at the establishment. This robust choice features strips of beef steak enveloped within the pastry shell, creating a hefty meal. It’s a generous portion that you might even consider sharing with a friend.

 

Spicy Longganisa

Garnished with small cuts of chili peppers, the Spicy Longganisa provides a flavorful kick. Priced at ₱110, this empanada packs heat while complementing the juicy longganisa, creating a lingering taste after each bite. It’s an ideal choice for those who want to try a spicy dish without exceeding their spice tolerance.

 

Supreme Spicy

If you’re someone who craves bold flavors and enjoys a good amount of heat in your meals, this empanada is made just for you. Priced at ₱120, it features a glaze that delivers a bold, fiery heat with a hint of sweetness. The balance of sweetness with a lively spice makes it an irresistible treat for those who appreciate a flavorful adventure.

 

Catch a seaside meal at Rodrigo’s Roast + Resto + Bar

Nestled along the beautiful shoreline of Santiago in Ilocos Sur, Rodrigo’s Roast + Resto + Bar invites you to savor a blend of modern dining and classic Ilocano flavors. Enjoy their delicious meat roasts while admiring the gorgeous coastal views. Whether you’re a local or just passing through, this welcoming spot promises an unforgettable dining experience amidst Santiago’s picturesque beauty. 

 

Whole Roast Chicken

Rodrigo’s Roasted Chicken delivers a truly delectable experience with its rich, smoky flavor infused into every tender bite. Priced at just ₱380, you get a generously sized chicken, properly roasted and chopped into convenient portions, making it easy to enjoy. Each piece of chicken offers a harmonious blend of subtle sweetness and saltiness, creating a well-balanced dish that is both satisfying and full of flavor. The dish is best shared among three to four people. 

 

Bagnet with Kamatis, Bagoong, at Lasona (KBL)

Bagnet with Kamatis, Bagoong, at Lasona (KBL) is a widely popular Ilocano twist on the beloved Ilocano staple, Bagnet. This dish elevates the traditional deep-fried pork belly by pairing it with fresh, juicy tomatoes (kamatis), savory fermented shrimp paste (bagoong), and thinly sliced shallots (lasona). The combination of these ingredients creates a harmonious blend of textures and flavors, with the crispiness of the bagnet perfectly balanced by the tangy tomatoes, the rich umami of the bagoong, and the subtle sweetness of the shallots.

 

Though undeniably flavorful, Rodrigo’s Bagnet with Kamatis, Bagoong, at Lasona (KBL) might be considered a bit on the higher end at ₱400, especially when considering its serving size, which can only accommodate two to three people.

 

Binagoongang Bagnet

Binagoongan is a popular Filipino dish that features pork cooked in shrimp paste, known as "bagoong" in Filipino. The dish is characterized by its rich and savory flavor, with the shrimp paste lending a distinct umami taste.

 

Rodrigo’s Binagoongan uniquely features Bagnet as its main protein. Complemented by fresh eggplants and tomatoes, this dish achieves a perfect balance between the succulent pork and vibrant vegetables, creating a hearty and satisfying meal. However, while the dish carries a hint of shrimp paste, it lacks the distinct punch of bagoong that some might expect from a traditional Binagoongan. Additionally, at ₱400, the serving size may only accommodate two to three people, which could be considered steep.

 

Lechon

Lechon is a popular Filipino dish made of a whole roasted pig. The pig is usually marinated, and slowly cooked over a charcoal pit or an oven until the skin is crispy and the meat is tender and flavorful. 

 

Rodrigo’s Lechon isn’t far from the traditional flavor, offering delightful hints of smoky and salty notes. The dish is elevated further with the addition of dinoydoy, a velvety squash sauce, the classic sarsa lechon sauce, and a touch of bagoong (fermented shrimp paste). These sauces enhance the natural flavor of the lechon, adding layers of depth and variety to each bite. Priced at ₱390 for a 500-gram serving, this dish provides great value, easily serving three to five people.

 

Pinakbet

Pakbet (or Pinakbet) is a traditional Filipino vegetable dish that originates from the Ilocos region. The name "pakbet" is derived from the Ilocano word "pinakebbet," which means "shrunk" or "shriveled," referring to the way the vegetables are cooked until they release their natural flavors. Pakbet is traditionally made with a variety of vegetables, including bitter melon (ampalaya), eggplant (talong), okra, string beans (sitaw), tomatoes, squash (kalabasa), and winged beans (sigarilyas).

 

Rodrigo’s version of Pinakbet stays true to the traditional dish, but what sets it apart is the use of Lechon meat as the main protein. The succulent, crispy-skinned Lechon adds a rich, savory depth that elevates the dish, creating a perfect balance between the hearty vegetables and the tender, flavorful meat. This luxurious twist enhances the overall taste and brings a new dimension to a beloved Filipino classic. Priced at ₱330, the dish offers a satisfying and indulgent take on Pinakbet that’s both familiar and refined.

 

Tortang Talong

Tortang talong is a popular Filipino dish that mainly consists of grilled or broiled eggplant, which is then dipped in beaten eggs and pan-fried. The name "tortang talong" comes from the Filipino words "torta" (meaning omelet) and "talong" (meaning eggplant).

 

Rodrigo’s Tortang Talong stays true to this classic, offering a generously sized eggplant pan-fried and coated in a golden egg batter. Priced at ₱240, it also includes a unique blend of tomatoes, spring onions, and red onions that balances the dish's savory and salty flavors, resulting in a hearty yet refreshing experience.

 

Sinigang na Lechon

Sinigang is a traditional Filipino soup known for its sour and savory flavor. The broth is the highlight of the dish, with its distinct sour taste pairing perfectly with a variety of vegetables and proteins like pork, beef, or shrimp.

 

Rodrigo’s Sinigang na Lechon (₱420) takes the classic Sinigang to new heights. Instead of the usual pork, beef, or shrimp, this dish features tender Lechon meat and crispy skin, which meld perfectly with the sour broth. The result is a melt-in-your-mouth experience that transforms this Filipino favorite into a truly indulgent dish. 

 

The final verdict

These culinary establishments are certainly a must-visit when you find yourself exploring the historic landscapes of Ilocos Sur. While the province is renowned for its iconic bagnet and Vigan longganisa, the region offers more than that, with a rich tapestry of flavors that reflect Ilocos Sur’s deep cultural heritage.

 

So, take a moment to enjoy a serving of pinakbet after visiting the heritage sites or treat yourself to some empanadas after a day at the beach. No matter where you go, the cuisine of the province will leave you longing to come back.

If you’re curious to learn more about these culinary gems, check out Nanang Sion Vigan Empanada on TripAdvisor and explore Rodrigo's Roast + Resto + Bar on their Facebook page.